Kubus to Zdrilo – Hiking Velebit Croatia

A midweek mountain escape, snow in March, and two pairs of shoes that learned a lesson.

Maybe this post is a little reminder of some past times, when life seemed to move more slowly. During that period, I often found peace in hiking Croatia’s wild mountain landscapes, where silence and simplicity always bring me back to myself.

Moments when most people’s daily routines suddenly changed. Honestly, I can’t completely relate to that feeling but I do believe life looked very different for many back then. For me, even though work and travel plans were suddenly put on hold, I still managed to find time for what I love most, mountains, cycling, and outdoor adventures. The only difference was that now I could do it with a bit less guilt.

During that time, when most people were just discovering nature and heading out to the mountains every weekend, those of us who were already there often found the crowds exhausting. So Ivana and I started our little “Covid tradition” - Mountains on Tuesdays. Our little ‘mountains on Tuesday’ tradition became one of my favorite ways to explore and keep hiking Croatia’s hidden trails so every Tuesday we’d head out for a mini adventure. One of those was our trip to the southern part of Velebit, to the small mountain shelter Ždrilo. That’s where the real adventure began.

The Road to Velebit

It was late March, the days were sunny, and it never even crossed my mind that there could still be snow on Velebit… but more on that later.

We packed our gear, loaded up the car, and drove toward Baške Oštarije, starting our two-day hike from Kubus. I’m the kind of person who remembers every trail she’s ever walked, so this time I wanted to avoid the climb from Baške toward the southern side of Jelerje Peak, the one that goes along the ski slope, because last time it nearly killed me. I didn’t want to put either Ivana or myself through that again. So we took an easier route: Kubus – Jelarje Peak– Sladovača – Jurkova valley

As soon as we started climbing, we noticed patches of snow that hadn’t melted yet in the shady parts of the trail. I was, as always, wearing my minimalist Altra Lone Peak shoes, my absolute favorites but they didn’t stay dry for long. Ivana, on the other hand, wore hiking boots, so at first the snow didn’t bother her much. If you think that gave her the advantage later… you’d be wrong.

It was one of those perfect hiking days: a mix of sunshine, taking photos, complaining a bit, laughing a lot. Everything was allowed.

As we approached Jurkova valley, I started noticing something strange. Many trees had been cut down - forestry work, obviously - and suddenly, the trail markings disappeared. Since the marked trees were gone, so were the red-and-white blazes.

No problem, map in hand, I took a rough azimuth, knowing we’d eventually find the trail again. We did, but only after a few kilometers of trudging through snow (sometimes up to our knees and hips high), climbing up and down small ridges. Ivana was convinced we were lost and swore she’d never hike with me again, but once we reached the trail and climbed up to Ždrilski Kuk, the view made her forgive everything.

Ždrilo Shelter – Peace and Simplicity

The Ždrilo shelter is one of my absolute favorites on Velebit. I always love coming back. Sunsets and sunrises up there are something truly special.

The shelter has an A-frame design, created by architect Ivan Juretić, known for his wooden, minimalist mountain shelters that blend perfectly into the landscape. His simple, unobtrusive design gives a sense of warmth and harmony that every hiker appreciates.

Inside, there’s space for 4–6 people, a small fireplace, a sink, a table, and a bench - all in one room, but more than enough. The little terrace in front is perfect for dinner outdoors, watching the sun set behind the peaks in complete silence.

(And as everyone knows, when the Bora wind hits Velebit, it’s no joke. I once spent 24 hours in this shelter, unable to even step outside!)

Evening Under the Stars

We arrived, lit a fire, and hung all our wet clothes to dry - including my soaked trail shoes and Ivana’s boots. We cooked dinner, waited for the sunset, and sat on the terrace with a beer in hand, just soaking in the view.

In those moments, everything becomes simple. All you need is a roof over your head and a bit of food to refuel. No signal, no worries and your mind just switches off. That’s probably why so many of us keep coming back to the mountains.

We watched the stars for a while and slowly drifted off to sleep.

Morning and the Way Back

The next morning greeted us with sunshine and total peace.The first thing I did was slip into my Altras.. completely dry, warm, and ready for another day of hiking. Ivana wasn’t so lucky.. her boots were still cold and damp, and let’s be honest, that’s not exactly what you want to put your feet into first thing in the morning.

For the way back, we decided to take a slightly different route: from Jurkova valley toward the village of Konjsko, and from there, a climb back up to Kubus, where the car was waiting.

It was obvious that no one had used that path for a while, the trail was overgrown, markings faded, but luckily that southern slope was sunny and snow-free. New views opened up as we descended, and once we reached the village, we connected to the Terezijana Road, a historic route built in the 18th century under Empress Maria Theresa, linking Gospić with Karlobag.

And that was the end of our little adventure, two days in nature, 17 kilometers of circular trail, a bit of snow, lots of laughter, and plenty of moments to remember.

Just another reminder that adventure doesn’t have to be big or spectacular, it only needs to warm your soul.